Hotel Seiyo Ginza, A Rosewood Hotel.

Overview
Effortlessly blending the
old and the
new, Tokyo is a city that defies definition.
Cutting edge technology glitters beside
ancient temples, flashing
neon lights bathe
kimono-clad women, and
shining skyscrapers tower above stunning
Shinto shrines.
At first glance a city clogged by
polluting cars and
harassed commuters, Tokyo has spots of tranquility and
beautiful detail that amaze and astonish. Home to over 12 million people, this is a city with a history and a heart that
captivates every visitor.
This
sprawling megalopolis on the Pacific coast of Honshu is on the largest of the 6,800 Japanese islands.
In 1590, the city was founded as
Edo, the capital of the
shoguns, the succession of hereditary absolute rulers of Japan and commander of the Japanese army. Edo boasted its own vibrant culture, the celebrated ‘floating world’ of pleasure quarters, theatres and cherry blossoms, immortalized in the Japanese woodblock prints of the time.
Following the fall of the shoguns in 1867 (and the restoration of the power of the Emperor), the city was renamed Tokyo, the
Eastern Capital, heralding its rebirth as a
dynamic modern city and the showpiece of a rapidly modernizing country.
Despite the catastrophic
1923 earthquake, which killed 140,000 and left a further 1.9 million people homeless, and near obliteration during WWII, Tokyo rose from the ashes.
Now a bewildering amalgamation of districts and
neighbourhoods, Tokyo still thrive as a coherent whole, due to the extraordinarily
efficient network of
rail and
underground lines that crisscross and encircle the city. These are
Tokyo’s arteries, transporting legions of businesspeople, office workers and students from the suburbs and depositing them in vast stations. Two million people a day pass through
Shinjuku Station alone.
The towering
business districts swarm with soberly dressed corporate warriors and the demure young secretaries known as ‘office flowers’. The
architectural anarchy and sheer crush of humanity assaults the senses. Amid the frenzy of
consumerism, brash
electronics outlets are crammed next to refined
upscale boutiques and hordes of
giggling schoolgirls swoon over pop idols and the latest fashions in
glitzy emporiums.
Downtown,
old neighbourhoods cluster around
antiquated shopping arcades and the clatter of the
temple bell echoes across the rooftops. Here, the rhythms of the seasons are still observed. Tokyoites flock to ring in the
New Year at the venerable
Shinto shrines and springtime brings a flurry of flower-viewing parties and picnics under the
cherry blossoms.
Rowdy,
traditional festivals punctuate the humid summers and the
spirit of the old Edo also survives in the neon-bathed entertainment districts: modern-day ‘floating worlds’ of
karaoke and
cinemas, shot
bars and
bathhouses. Traditional
kabuki theatre thrives alongside
opera,
ballet and symphonic performances, and Tokyoites are passionate about
sumo,
baseball and now, thanks partly to the 2002 World Cup,
football.
With the latest figures estimating an incredible
60,000 eateries in Tokyo and home to the
world’s largest fish market, food is an obsession even closer to Japanese hearts. From bowls of steaming ramen noodles to delicate slices of sashimi, chefs compete to offer the freshest produce, and presentation is elevated to an art form.
Japan was
once an economic powerhouse inviting the envy of the world, but continuing
recession, bank collapses and
financial scandals have swept away the financial certainties of the past.
With the arrival of the more ‘yen conscious’ economy, however, Tokyo has become a much more
affordable destination. To the surprise of many, travelling and entertaining in this bustling city no longer requires a second mortgage. And with grooming and shopping followed with almost religious fervor, very little economic trepidation is evident to spoil a visitor’s fun.
Visiting the city is a pleasure at any time, except perhaps the
sweltering heat of summer (July and August). While winter in the city is cold and crisp,
spring (March to May) is the highlight of the year for many, with the arrival of delicate
cherry blossoms inspiring sake-soaked picnics in the city’s parks and avenues. Autumn (September to November) sees the oppressive summer heat give way to balmy days and golden leaves.
But avoid
Golden Week (late Apr-May) and
New Year (late Dec-early Jan), the two most important festivals in the Shinto calendar, because the
city closes down. But with
festivals celebrated almost every week, whenever you visit there is always something of the old Japan to experience.
Thanks to the determination of the Japanese government to attract foreign visitors, Tokyo is becoming ever
easier to navigate. A recent redesign of the subway map makes travelling on the city’s excellent public transport extremely easy.
English signage is good and getting better, while learning a few basics in Japanese will go a long way to help navigate the sprawling city’s streets.
With recent statistics heralding an unprecedented
rise in tourist numbers, Tokyo is inspiring more western visitors than ever before. Hurtling towards the future while respecting its past, this
unique city and the people that live there offer visitors an experience they will never forget.
Tourist Information
WalkingToursThe
TokyoTouristInformationOffice (tel: (03) 3201 3331; website:
http://www.jnto.go.jp/) provides a leaflet, ‘Walking Tour Courses in Tokyo’, outlining walking routes in several main areas of the city.
MrOka’sWalkingToursofTokyo (tel: 0422 51 7673; website:
www.homestead.com/mroka/) offers free walking tours of the city. The historian runs a number of tours all over the city, and as they are free they are very popular.
BusToursHatoBus (tel: (03) 3435 6081; website:
http://www.hatobus.co.jp/),
JTBSunriseTours (tel: (03) 5796 5454; website:
www.jtbgmt.com/sunrisetour/) and
JapanGrayLine (tel: (03) 3595 5948; website:
www.jgl.co.jp/inbound/index.htm) all offer a wide variety of half-day, full-day and evening bus tours, with English-speaking guides. For example, Hato Bus offers a half-day (0900-1230) ‘Tokyo Morning Tour’ that departs daily from the Hamamatsucho Bus Terminal. The tour takes in a number of sights, such as the Tokyo Tower and the Imperial Palace Plaza, as well as driving through a number of the city’s lively shopping districts. Free hotel pick-up is available.
BoatToursThe
TokyoCruiseShipCompany (tel: (03) 5733 4812; website:
http://www.suijobus.co.jp/) runs a regular waterbus service along the Sumida River, between Asakusa, the Hama Rikyu Gardens, and Hinode Pier. The trip takes 40 minutes (one way). The company also operates a variety of other waterbus services around Tokyo Bay, lasting between 5 and 55 minutes.
Vingt-
et-
UnCruises (tel: (03) 3436 2121; website:
http://www.vantean.co.jp/) and
SymphonyCruises (tel: (03) 3798 8101; website:
www.symphony-cruise.co.jp/english/) offers daytime and evening boat cruises between 1 and 2 hours around Tokyo Bay. The latter depart from the Hinode Pier.
Other Tours
See Tokyo from a rickshaw and discover areas seldom seen by other tourists.
Asakusa’s Rickshaw Tour Guides (tel: (03) 5806 8881; website:
http://www.ebisuya.com/) operate daily from 0900 to dusk from near the Asakusa pier on the Sumidagawa River and surrounding areas.